Week 4: Education

This week, I had an admirable array of possible choices. There are tutors, masters in many disciplines in my family tree. One of my paternal great-grandfathers was a teacher, school principal, journalist, a published poet and up until the last week of his life he wrote for an art column in a local newspaper in my hometown. There are schools named for him, and for his sister, another great teacher. There are numerous music instructors, college professors in various fields ranging from law to medicine, cited to this day in scholarly papers. All of them are formidable, and deserving of their own blog post. But when I think about this theme, there is one name that always comes to the top.

I hope no one finds it strange or inappropriate that I am writing about a living ancestor, someone who is very close to me: my mother. She embodies the dedication, the passion and the true sense of what it is to be an educator. I apologize in advance if this will be too personal. I do not want this to read like a eulogy. Right now, I want to pay tribute to my mother for her achievements and the lives she touched during her years in teaching, or magistério, in Portuguese, from the Latin magisterium, meaning “a principle of nature having transmuting or curative powers”. That is indeed the power an educator wields.

My mother is 75, and was diagnosed with frontotemporal dementia when she was only 61. News of her retirement in 2009 caught us by surprise; up until then, she had been talking about leaving her job in 2012. She had big plans, one was writing a book. She wanted to travel to spend time with me, in the United States, and my brother, who was living in Europe at the time. My mother became a grandmother twice in 2007. She took some time off to be with my family when I gave birth in March that year, and in October when my sister delivered her first child. When mom retired in mid-2009 there was another baby on the way, my sister’s second daughter. Two grandsons arrived when her cognition was already somewhat impaired, in 2012 and 2014, but we have beautiful pictures of her holding each of them with all the love of the world in her eyes.

Before her diagnosis, she wanted to cross off other items from her travel bucket list, specially Budapest. She has traveled extensively, but an opportunity to go to Eastern Europe never came. I am glad that, on her last international trip before her illness made such things impossible, she came to visit while I was living in Georgia. My mother always dreamed of seeing Savannah and Charleston, having grown up reading romance novels set in the Antebellum Era. We took the grand tour! During those weeks, I was able to observe what my sister had been telling me, about Mom’s spotty memory and executive function difficulties. For us, the long process of grieving the slow loss of our mother had started, and is still unfolding. Dementia is indeed the long goodbye, and it has given me the opportunity to reflect on life, death, spirituality, the things that matter and the ones that don’t. It gave me a new perspective on my mother and on my changing relationship with her. It certainly shapes me as a mother to my own children. I traveled from one side of the spectrum to the other, from being the one she cared for, to being a caregiver, although my sister, an extraordinary powerhouse of a woman and an apple who did not fall far from the tree, is the one that fulfills that role primarily.

I have seen my mother from her strongest to her most vulnerable, I came up with boundless more admiration for the absolute rockstar Maria Luiza is, and I want to write that while she is still here. When I see her, sometimes I catch a brief glint of recognition, she sees me and something inside her lights up. I do not know what she remembers, she cannot use her words anymore. Everything that makes a person who they are, the collection of personal traits, knowledge acquired, life experiences and whatever it is that constitutes one’s soul my mother still has them, but these things are locked away inside her brain, forever irretrievable. My children, nieces and nephew are growing up without the privilege I had of having both grandmothers around. I am leaving these words, which are patently my own impressions of her, so they can know a little more about Vovó Biziza.

She was born in Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, on July 21st, 1947, the second-to-last in my grandparents’ brood of ten. Mom lived her whole life within 2 kilometers from where she was born. The city was not big, and the times were different, the prospects were not the most exciting. Most people would not leave town, it was a quiet life. But she was born with the gift of wanderlust, which she indulged in by reading every book she could get her hands on, watching movies, and later in life, traveling. She was a straight-A student and in high school she went for a teacher’s certification track. She was already employed tutoring adults at a public school’s nighttime elementary education program when she started college, pursuing a bachelor’s degree in Neo-Latin Languages. By then, she had been dating my father for a few years. They had known each other since infancy, as it happens in small towns. The rest of the story unfolds in a fairly predictable way: they got their degrees, got married, had a baby (me), bought a house, had my brother, had my sister.

Now, things go off script. Not many people got divorced at that time. You were married, no matter how unhappily, until life did you part. My parents did not stay together, which was of course not easy on any of us, but for their own sake, in retrospect, I am glad they did. They are both good people who simply did not belong together. My father moved away, she stayed and became a solo parent when this was still taboo. Mother kept a brave face as some of their old relations drifted away due to her “unconventional” marital status. She raised us through thick and thin, went back to work outside of home, something she had not done since my brother had arrived. I am old enough to remember her suffering, but she was also a very practical person, and she did everything she had to do to pick herself up, and kept our lives as steady as possible. We did not experience hardship. She cried when she had to cry, the first couple of years took some getting used to, but on the other side she emerged stronger, resilient, and she never lost one ounce of the grace, kindness, generosity and dedication she devoted to her children, and to her students.

Mom juggled working at a school in the morning, and tutoring in the afternoon at our house. We had a classroom on the second floor with a long table sitting up to ten people. I grew up with the constant opening and closing of the front gate, watching the groups arrive hourly. Most of those were high school seniors she was preparing to pass the competitive university admission tests we take in Brazil. She also taught French, her second-favorite language, in which she was beautifully fluent. Portuguese was number one, and that love she had nurtured since childhood, reading the works from the great masters. Brazil and Portugal have produced some of the richest literature in the world, still vastly underrated. You should really. Check. Them. Out. Each of these links.

My mother believed that an education was a right, not a privilege. I remember her teaching grown-ups who had not been able to complete their studies when younger. She was unflappable dealing with the throngs of sleepy-eyed teenagers during school’s first period at 7 in the morning, that oftentimes were not on their best behavior. She would spend long hours editing and proofreading post-graduate and PhD theses, and facing, unflinchingly, piles of tests to grade (it was all paper-based, dear young reader). Mom was tired, a lot, putting in a double, sometimes triple, journey every day. Also, she was an introvert, and being one myself I do not know how she mustered the energy to engage daily with so many people, but she did.

When she was not working, she was in her bedroom at the end of the hallway, the space where she could enjoy the brief gift of quiet and solitude, although she always knew what us kids were up to. She was not an absentee mother, and she was firm in disciplining the wayward child (I think I deserve the Number 1 prize on that). She grew up with strict values of politeness, respect for everyone regardless of their background, strong work ethic and personal responsibility, and she expected nothing less from us. We were also brought up still in the old times when there was the proverbial village that helped raise the children. Both my grandmothers, some of my uncles and aunts were always present, she could count on them and so did we, but during the hardest times, during the long sleepless nights with one or more sick kids, when she had to manage the myriad little crises that come with parenting, when one of us was struggling in the difficult process of growing up, she was there, always by our side, always steady, our biggest encourager, enthusiastic about our prospects and exploits. My brother left to live abroad in 2000, I moved here the following year, and she cheered for our success while missing us dearly.

During school vacation, we would travel to be with our father, and mom would purchase a travel package and go somewhere. She went to Europe and the US several times, she traveled a lot within South America and domestically in Brazil, too. She would always send postcards from whichever new destination she was visiting. Those are now stored in boxes along with many pictures and other mementos from her adventures. That lady climbed several hundred of steps and experienced the rarefied air and the visual marvel of Macchu Picchu, she was in Los Angeles in 1994 during an earthquake, and she had this one story where she was behind a man at an airport in London, then in a few days in Toronto, and finally in Brazil, same guy, wearing the same jacket, a couple of weeks later. For him, it was probably boring work travel, but she did all of that plane hopping while seven months pregnant, which is no small feat.

I am very happy to inform that she found love again, more than once. Some relationships were brief, and the last one lasted a couple of decades. They never got married, didn’t even move in together, which was by common agreement and worked out great. He was a good friend, a companion, and for a period of time a caregiver, until we had to move her to be closer to my sister.

My deep dive into family history, and the fact that it has become so big I am now even keeping a blog, started with her. She liked telling stories, specially of her travels to her mother’s hometown of Campos, when she was younger. There were so many uncles and aunts, cousins galore, I could not keep track of them. Now I have plentiful names and dates, but sometimes cannot match them to the stories, a big source of dismay because I should have written those things down somewhere.

My mother had a prodigious memory, and she would remember people’s names, birthdays, even phone numbers (again something really novel for you, young reader). She called every sibling, niece, nephew, and a long list of dear friends to wish them all the happiness and health on their big day and through the year ahead. Many of those friends were former students. She threw beautiful birthday parties for the three of us, creating treats and decorations by hand in a pre-Pinterest era when you had to come up with the ideas on your own. She made picture albums chronicling our childhood, all labeled and decorated, also before the digital age. Those, I am rushing to scan because time is not kind to photo paper.

For each of our births, she created a Baby Book where you can see her perfect calligraphy on the family tree going up to the great-grandparents, all the immunizations, major milestones, and some of her impressions of her babies in all the important categories of “first smile”, “first tooth”, “first steps” and “first word”. Mine was “ua”, which she translated to the readership as “rua” (street), but it could also mean “lua” (moon). Or, pretty much anything that sounded vaguely like that. My vocabulary grew exponentially and very fast, undoubtedly because I was surrounded by said village, my mom at the center of it, making the time to play with dolls, sing lullabies (in French too!), and read books. We had a lot of them, and they were not just for show. She taught me to read when I was three, which earned me a fast pass in academics: the sisters at the Vicentian school she had attended and where she also taught at times let me enroll in kindergarten ahead of schedule.

Every memory of my mom is profoundly intertwined with her craft, her mission, her passion of being a teacher. Even when the times were not the greatest, again, we are talking dealing with teenagers, she was always ready with a lesson plan, a smile on her face, a clear explanation for each of the incomprehensibly complex verb tenses and the labyrinthine rules of Portuguese grammar, and more than enough time to help a student before or after class. I do not think she had real off hours. Teaching was her every day, not just a job. She believed in education as the key to form a professional, a citizen, a well-rounded person, and she wanted to see each of her students realize their potential.

She also liked being the student. She went back to further her own education, taking courses in theology, a subject she was really interested in even though she was not particularly religious. Furthermore, she went for her post-graduate studies when I was already in college, and she wrote her final monograph on the language and symbolism in the music and lyrics of her favorite composer, Chico Buarque de Hollanda, who was targeted during the military dictatorship my mother grew up under, starting in 1964 when she was still in her teens, and ending when she was the mother of a teenager. One of the dearest memories I have is taking her to see him live when I was living in São Paulo, sometime in ’98 or ’99. She was able to deliver a copy of her study to one of his assistants. I hope he received it. Chico, by the way, is still fighting the good fight. She was also a huge Elvis Presley fan, and after the onset of her illness, on those days when she was more absent, in those increasingly longer gaps of connection with the world and the people around her, one of his movies would always bring her back, and we would sing with Elvis whether he was in Las Vegas, Acapulco or Hawaii.

So, this is a little bit about Maria Luiza, one of three ancestors I still have along with my dad and his mother. Some people who will read this blog also know my mother, and may want to add their own impressions, or would like to highlight a different set of memories of her. The comments section is open. If you are someone doing family history, do not wait until after they are gone. Seek them out, listen to their stories, write them down. And if I may suggest one question to ask them, this is it: ask about their teachers. Behind a great person, there is typically a dedicated group of educators who helped them along the way. I know because every single time I visit my hometown, I run into someone who has something amazing to say about my mom.

Week 3: Out of place

Santa Isabel, Espirito Santo, 1860 – Source: Esp. Santo State Public Archives

Coming up with a subject for this week’s post was not an easy choice since I come from a family of immigrants. I am myself one, so being out of place is not an uncommon occurrence for us. However, on most cases, people ended going where they intended to go, so I thought telling the story of an unexpected detour would be interesting. I chose a branch I already wrote about, my Schneider folks (the original post is in Portuguese), that along with the Stein family would depart Germany for Brazil in 1846, believing they were headed for the Southern province of Rio Grande do Sul, a place that had been receiving a steady immigration influx from several Germanic States like Rhineland-Palatinate, Hesse, Thuringia, Lower Saxony, and Saarland since earlier in that century. The villages there were full of people who came from the same land, spoke the same language, there were even a few familiar names.

For years, they had seen their friends and relatives leave. Finally, their day to board the Philomela, departing from Dunkirk, France, had arrived. She was one vessel in a convoy carrying families escaping the harsh economy in their homeland, where people were suffering with land seizures, unemployment and crop failure. Agents recruiting laborers to depart for the Americas did not have a hard time finding takers. Most immigrants would opt for a new beginning in the United States, but others would choose Brazil, specially if they already had relatives or old acquaintances there, like my ancestors. But alas, unbeknownst to them, the Schneiders and Steins would participate in an experimental program elsewhere some 1300 miles away up the Brazilian coast.

The Philomela

When one thinks about coffee, Brazil likely comes to mind, and the story of how my ancestors found themselves in the exuberant countryside in a little known province in the eastern seaboard has to do with the Brazilian coffee boom. The first seedlings had been brought from Guiana into the country in 1793, and soon coffee took over vast expanses of farmland along valleys in the interior of Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Minas Gerais, transforming villages and towns that had been struggling and where there was still a significant number of enslaved people to work in the fields. At that time, the Atlantic slave trade had ceased, at least officially, but Abolition in Brazil would not happen until 1888.

Espírito Santo was not experiencing this downturn in the same manner because of its own underdevelopment, there were not many farms in the interior parts of the province and most of the land had not been yet explored. This was by design, to serve a purpose that had now expired. Due to its strategic position and topography, it created a natural barrier that inhibited gold and gemstone contraband from the sprawling Minas Gerais province to the West during the gold rush era. Espírito Santo’s interior is noted as forbidden lands in 17th and 18th century maps, and by royal decree it was stipulated that those portions of lands should remain unoccupied by settlers and no roads could be opened crossing the province to connect the mines to the seashore.

To enforce that with some visual aids, maps had illustrations depicting indigenous men with spears, feathered headpieces, and the botoques, more accurately named tametaras or tembetás that they wore on their lower lips, ears and nose. The natives received the generic denomination of Botocudos, even though they comprised very diverse groups of origin, sharing and often warring for territory against Tupiniquim tribes. These indigenous groups bravely resisted occupation of their ancestral lands for over three centuries since the first Europeans arrived in 1500, having endured violence from the Portuguese colonizers, and the deadly diseases they brought. The native people had been pushed away from the coast to accommodate the urban settlers during the colonial era, but they were left somewhat alone in the interior mountains and valleys for the next couple of centuries, acting as an extra measure of discouragement for anyone trying to smuggle mineral riches through Espírito Santo. However, when mining in Minas Gerais dwindled and Brazil turned to other exports, the mountains would no longer offer them seclusion.

In the 1820s the gold and gemstone mines were all but exhausted, Brazil had just become independent from Portugal, and it started to look for new commercial partners. In the coming years, old fields that were once pasture, cassava or sugarcane crops now showed neat rows and terraces where the green bushes grew with its colorful coffee berries. Espírito Santo’s mountains, part of the Atlantic Forest biodome, offered the perfect weather and soil conditions, and the province’s president decided it was time to develop the countryside by bringing immigrants as part of an incentivized program. They would receive a plot of land and seeds. Their transportation expenses since the origin, as well as food and other necessities, were to be repaid to the Brazilian government within four years. He requested that some of the incoming German immigrants headed to Rio Grande do Sul would instead be redirected to the mouth of the Jucu River, where they would be transferred to the capital city of Vitória until their paperwork and provisions were ready. Hence, my ancestors were moved to two other boats, the Eolo and the Urania, smaller and better for sailing closer to the coast. I do not know how much my ancestors understood of what was happening. Their fellow countrymen would proceed on their journey to Rio Grande do Sul, they stayed behind. This process took a couple of months longer than expected, but finally, in March 1847, still during the hottest season of the year, the group of 167 people divided among 39 families was on their way up the slopes.

The men went first, opening the path through the creeks and the tangle of woods and vines of the still pristine forest. They were accompanied by local guides from the provincial military, dealing with the terrain, mosquitoes and the justified outrage from the increasingly displaced native people. Adapting to the diet was another issue. Europeans were not used to eating cassava flour, the starchy staple from a root vegetable that grows in South America. The women and children joined them once the trails were passable.

The Schneider immigrants in my family were Peter Joseph, my 4th great-grandfather, a twice-widowed laborer born in Neunkirchen, Saarland. He arrived in Brazil aged 65 and lived in his new home for another twenty years. He left one married daughter in Germany, traveling with the single children: Nikolaus (26), Joseph (22), Christine (28) and Barbara (33).

My other branch was the Stein family. Thomas Stein was born in Hundheim, Rhineland-Palatinate, and was married to Margaretha Anton from the same town. They immigrated with their children Nikolaus (15), Marie Anne (12), and Jakob (9). Marie Anne Stein and Nikolaus Schneider were neighbors in the new colony, and married in the Santa Isabel Parish on January 16, 1851. They had a brood of 13 children, among them my second great-grandfather Bernardo Schneider, born in 1859. One of Nikolaus and Marie Anne’s daughters married a man from Rio Grande do Sul, where the majority of the German immigrants had settled, likely the son of a family they knew from their old home.

The Catholics, among them both of my family branches, found support in the nearby village of Viana, where a number of Azorean families had settled a couple of decades before. The Lutheran reverend arrived later to tend to his flock. Looking at Santa Isabel church books, I took note of the numerous marriages among the families including a few interfaith unions, others venturing out and taking Brazilian spouses as the years went by. Census and records illustrate how my two families were faring five years after their arrival.

Entries in the 1851 Santa Isabel Census showing Peter Joseph (Jose) Schneider living with sons Joseph and Nikolaus, married to Marie Anne Stein. They had 3,000 coffee plants and one horse. On the next lot lived Thomas Stein and Margaretha Anton with sons Nikolaus, married to Marie Anne Marx, and Jakob. They owned 2,000 coffee plants and no farm animals.

More than twenty years would pass until another wave of Germanic immigrants arrived in Espírito Santo, however not from the same region. The newcomers came from the Prussian Province of Pomerania, most of it situated in modern-day Poland facing the Baltic Sea. They settled in the Santa Leopoldina Parish area, some 50 miles North. Santa Isabel would, however, receive a large influx of Italian immigrants later in the century.

Province of Espírito Santo in 1861 showing the Santa Isabel colony.
Santa Isabel – 1875

The elders in my family were not able to vote, as a matter of fact they passed away before a time when they would be allowed to, by law. I did not find naturalization records for any of them, except for one of Marie Anne Stein’s brothers, who was involved in local politics. My 97-year-old grandmother remembers her grandfather Bernardo Schneider, who spoke with a slight German accent despite being Brazilian-born. He moved away from Santa Isabel and was a successful entrepreneur in Vitória, the owner of a general goods store. He married my 2nd great-grandmother Maria Luiza Furtado de Oliveira in 1889. Her roots in Espírito Santo stretch back to the late 1600s. The house where they lived in my hometown of Vila Velha, across a narrow bay from Vitória, still stands, the street now named for Bernardo. The high school across from the old home is named for their son Godofredo, my paternal grandmother’s father who died a few months shy of my birth, in 1971. My grandmother still lives down the alley that starts at the high school gate. Apart for a few years spent out of town due to my grandfather’s employment, she has lived there her whole life.

That place is my family’s, my own. I am the immigrant now, though I cannot say I feel out of place where I am. Rather, I am forever divided, as I am sure the Schneiders, Steins and many others probably felt. I am glad they took the risk. I hope they thought their journey was worthwhile, and that they were where they were supposed to be.

Week 2: Favorite photo

From left: José, Isaura, Julia, Deja.

After my grandmother Julia Wagner de Barros Faria died in 2006, her belongings were gathered by my aunt and godmother Aldinha, the youngest child and a loving caregiver. Little did we know that my aunt would herself depart prematurely in 2018. Her bedroom is still kept the way it was the last night she spent there. It took me a bit to muster the courage to ask my grieving cousins, two of Aldinha’s daughters, to let me see what was inside the boxes. They were happy to oblige. So, during one of my travels to Brazil last year, we got together to look at snapshots of my grandparents’ life.

None of us had many recollections of our maternal grandfather José Nunes Faria (the grandson of my subject in last week’s post). He passed away when I was six; one of my cousins was three and the other was born after his death, although his memory was, and still is, very present. All of us grew up very close to our grandmother, who had a large family, as did grandpa. Our hometown was not theirs, though: my grandfather hailed from the state of Minas Gerais, whereas grandma was from a town in the northern part of Rio de Janeiro. Grandpa José’s work brought the family to where I, and my cousins, were born. Over the years, we got to meet many of each side’s relatives, but we never had a big family reunion with everybody. Not that we were isolated, our local group by itself was a large one, but most of my great-uncles and great-aunts, and their families, lived far. In grandma’s boxes, I found photos of parties where people came from other states, but those had happened decades prior. Many of those in the pictures were already gone by the time I was a small child, including all of my grandmother’s siblings.

On my grandfather’s side, I remember traveling to meet two of his youngest sisters, Djanira, nicknamed Deja, and Isaura. My mother and grandmother always spoke fondly of them. Even if they went years without seeing each other, their names were always mentioned, and we knew what was going on with the Minas relatives. Deja died in 1986. She was the family historian and left a treasure trove of notes, the foundation for my research on that side of the tree. I owe so much to her. Isaura passed away much later, four years before my grandmother, and thus the book was closed on a whole generation of the Barros and Faria families. The mementos I found among my grandmother’s belongings offered me a glimpse of their lives decades before I came around. The picture above caught my eye and my heart immediately.

On the back, I saw my grandmother’s handwriting. There is no date, but it reads “On a stroll, with the Church of Floresta in the background, where the famed choir is comprised of, and directed by the Faria family”. It wasn’t difficult to find the church, Our Lady of Sorrows, located in the Floresta neighborhood in Belo Horizonte. The building was still in construction when the family moved there from the countryside town of Pirapora, in the western portion of the state, and became involved in this fledgling parish doing what they knew best: making music, which is a topic for a future post. The church was officially inaugurated in 1940, the year my great-grandfather Christóvam died.

I love this picture because the people look so carefree. My grandfather, married to a talented seamstress, always very dapper. His face cannot be seen, and he was not one to “say cheese” anyway, but I like to think he had a slight grin under the shade of the brim. My grandmother, linking arms with Isaura, was laughing, something she did often. I still see that smile when I think of her. I noticed Deja was looking up and beaming, her gaze towards someone she knew.

When I researched the church, I saw it is located on Silva Jardim Street. I had seen that name before, it was on my great-grandfather’s death record. It turns out, the family lived down the street from their church, and the house is still there, in need of care and repairs, but still conserves its lines, embellishments and character as the city grew and modernized around it. The street is still paved with the original cobblestones. The local architectural commission has the house listed on its website, where I found current pictures of the exterior, and part of the original blueprint from 1931. I hope the goal is to preserve this historical building.

I wish I could zoom out and see who was at the window, smiling back at Deja from inside the family home. Maybe my great-grandmother? I wish I could overhear their conversation, it looks like they were having a good time, or maybe trying to lighten up after a difficult period if this was taken not too long after Christóvam passed. It could be a well-deserved respite for my great-aunts, who cared for their father alongside great-grandma Beralda during his illness. I will never know, but I wish I could thank the photographer, likely my great-uncle Alysson, known for this love of cameras and all things audiovisual, a passion he turned into a successful career, deserving of a blog post of its own. He captured a precious fleeting moment, the shutter clicked at just the right time to preserve the happiness and camaraderie of my grandparents with the sisters. Whatever the conversation was, I can feel their joy.